West of Jesus- Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief Book
West of Jesus, written by acclaimed writer Steven Kotler, takes the reader on his own personal trip through life to find answers to questions he and many others have about surfing and spirituality, hence the name-Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief. I'm not going to give away the farm, but let's just say that I was along for part of the ride.
The Los Angeles Times wrote: "The ideal book for any reader who asked themselves, 'How did surfing take over my life?' Kotler brings us closer to the answers via a wild, globe-trotting journey in search of surfing's much referenced but rarely discussed spiritual side."